Master Bathroom Exhaust Fan

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      Inside the better part of a decade, even the best kept homes will cry out for maintenance and updates.  While arguably the "standard" master bath fan that was installed was never quite sufficient, it now was past its time to be replaced.  It would emit a sound that was as near as we could tell screaming to be put out of its misery.

      Easy would have been to simply to replace the motor in the existing housing.  Both Lowe's and Home Depot sell replacement motors for around $15 to $20.

     Instead, we decided to consider upgrade options.  A more powerful fan for the large room would be a good consideration and I had my heart on finding a fan that also offered had a built-in heater.  We stopped by Lowe's and Home Depot and found the best value in Lowe's house brand; Harbor Breeze.

  

            

      The model we selected (0194492) offered a much better CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute), a reasonable sound level (3.0 sones on a scale we saw top out at 6), a light and a heater.

                   

                       

      Harbor Breeze is actually made by any number of companies and branded Harbor Breeze by Lowe's.  We have found products labeled Harbor Breeze to be as reliable as any other brand but sometimes a bit difficult to address support issues.

                           

     When replacing a device that has one function with a device with three functions, additional wires have to be fed from the device to the switch on the wall.  I could have installed a new switch plate all together, but we decided to change out the one switch that controlled the fan with a stacked switch.

                          

      The white stacked switch shown far right is made by Pass and Seymour.  We purchased it at Lowe's, but I found a brown one to order online from Menard's.  We loved shopping Menard's when we lived in the Chicago area.  They have a knack for carrying uncommon as well as common items.  

                      

 

     The biggest installation obstacle I had to route additional wires from the switch to the new exhaust fan was that the existing switch is in a wall that that does not extend all the way up to the ceiling.  Instead, there is an architectural feature that  creates a built-in shelf.

                             

      Before I did any drilling I referenced photographs I took of the home during construction.  Seeing where the existing wires enabled me to consider wiring options and make sure I avoid drilling into something that would be very bad.

                      

               

      On the plus side for my project, the builder had installed an attic access in the same closet sharing a wall with the switch.  They also installed a switchable light.

         

 
                            
 

      Not pretending to be a professional, I knew the only practical way to route the wiring was to cut access holes.  The holes were made in the closet and I have become rather good at patching holes over the years.

                            

     Three holes were cut.  As you can see, I was not concerned with cutting perfectly square holes.  There was no point to make them square.  Irregular lines make it easier to patch later for a textured surface and following straight lines is wasted time.

                        

     Although I was adding two more devices that needed to be connected to a switch, I decided I only needed to route one more Romex line.  Romex meets or exceeds code and was used when the house was constructed.  The yellow casing wire I was using (see below) is rated for exterior use and in the home for another project I have not yet gotten around to.  Inside the casing is a white wire, black wire and a ground wire.  Power was already being supplied, so the new white wire I would use to switch the light and the black wire would be dedicated to switch the heater while the existing wiring would switch the exhaust fan.

                                   

     I decided it would be easier to drop the Romex wire down the wall and allow gravity to be an ally.  Below is the attic view of the wiring into the hole I drilled into the metal beam.

                     

     The red washer is designed for the purpose of protecting the wire from rubbing against the rough metal edge created when drilling the hole.  Otherwise, any movement of the home or of the wire could cause the metal edge to cut through the wire over a long time.

  

                    

 

     To pull the wire down from the ceiling, I asked my wife to stick a stiff wire up through a hole I drilled through the plywood seen at left.  I was able to pull the stiff wire through the hole shown above, tape the Romex to it, and essentially thread the wire back down.  Then I routed the wire underneath the plywood and down through existing holes in the final wall.

                            

     A third hole in the closet behind the switch box was made to route the wire up through an access channel on the bottom of the box.

 

                               

       At last, the new wire was fed through the back of the switch box.  Using logic based on how the original fan was wired, I added the additional black and white wires to the stacked switch.

                               

     Knowing I had the most tedious portion of the project completed, it was time to direct my attention to removing the existing exhaust fan and replacing it with the new one.  To have simply replaced the motor would have been easy, but I had to remove the entire box.  The box happened to be right against an attic rafter.  Two screws were easily removed, but I wound up having to cut the box apart to access two additional screws that were otherwise only attic accessible.

 

                               

 

     Once removed both cables are accessible.  I also measured and drew the lines to cut the hole larger for the larger appliance.

                    

     While quick irregular holes worked in the closet, it would not work for the new fan.  I used the drywall saw shown below.  Later, the tip of this saw would be used to prep screw holes for the repairs in the closet.

                           

                    

     With the hole enlarged, I had hopes to finish the project without actually climbing in the attic.  The hole was directly adjacent to a stud.  By anchoring the box to the stud from below, the theory was I may be able to avoid the inevitable attic trip.

 

                         

 

     Here the wires are tied together and all labeled.  The wires are capped although all the switches are off, so none should actually be live.

                               

     When removing the original fan box, I tore a small part of the vent hose.  I also discovered that the exhaust hose for the new box was 4-inches in diameter and the vent hose was 3 inches.  To solve that and to extend the hose a little for the part I damaged, I connected an adapter to an 3" elbow.  Duct tape was used to secure the connections.

 

                               

 

     While hope to complete installation without an attic trip was fading, I still knew I had to resolve an electrical connection dilemma.  At left is the new box on its side.  The manufacturer designed electrical to come out of the box on the side, but that side had to be mounted against a stud and I would be unable to access that side in the attic.

                          

     To solve that problem, I drilled a new electrical access hole on the top of the box and wired it completely in the bathroom.

                               

      Wired on the top, I was able to install the box into the ceiling from inside the master bath, but I would have to make one trip into the attic.

                    

     In the attic, I installed the factory brackets designed to span parallel rafters.  The brackets would help the heavier box remain rigid as the motors were operated.  I also connected the exhaust hose.

 

                               

 

      With the box in its permanent position, it was wise to seal the edges of the box with the ceiling with caulk.

                    

     The GE product shown at left was used.  It was easy to apply, dries quickly and is mold resistant.  The goal was to eliminate small particles of insulation to blow through as well as unwanted air leaks into the attic.  The caulk would also reduce any vibration problems that could arise.

 

                               

      The installation is great.  It functions like an appliance in a luxurious hotel.  The light brightens the room, the fan is better suited for the space and we look forward for the heater to make life more comfortable on very cold days.

                    

     But the job is not over.  I still have holes to patch and, eventually replace the white switch with the brown one when it arrives.

 

 

                               

 

     

     The first step to repair the holes is to find a light wood and screw it behind the hole as shown at left.  Pine makes a perfect type of lumber.  You do not want something that is hard for a screw to penetrate nor something that would easily splinter. 

                            

     I make pilot holes into the drywall and then use the tip of the drywall saw to widen the outer part of the hole.  This is so the screw's head easily sinks into the hole.  Otherwise, applying too much pressure can easily break drywall or ruin prior attachments.

                               

     This hole was a little more complicated because two sides were right against metal studs and the wooden brace must be flush to the drywall.  In this case, I use a wider board and cut the ends on angles so I can secure it in place as shown.

 

 

                               

 

     Once the brace is in place, the original cut out is attached to the brace.  Note that only four screws are necessary and that the heads are screwed in beneath the surface of the drywall.

                               

     I love this stuff from DAP.  I have used it many times over the years.  If you're really good, you can apply it to cracks or other filler projects in just one application.  In this case, I fill all the screw heads and grooves, let it dry over a couple hours and apply one more light coat.

 

                               

 

     The Fast 'N Final works great.  Before texture, Kilz, and paint it already looks on its way to be an invisible repair.

                               

Amidst the wall repair, the brown switch arrived from Pass and Seymour (LeGrand) I had ordered through Menard's.

 

                               

 

The new brown switch simply got wired exactly the same way the white one had been.

                               

Now the switches match.  The white one will be returned to Lowe's.

 

                               

 

We applied Spray Texture from Homax to the three patched holes in the closet.  This particular can we had for a while, although essentially the same stuff, the current product offers an improved spray nozzle and quicker drying times.

                               

Just after the texture is applied, we see the work nearly completed.  Most of what is visible any longer is the pure white of the patch and the darker wet areas of the texture contrasting with the wall paint.

 

                               

 

 

 

                               

 

 

 

                               

 

 

 

                               

 

 

 

                             

 

 

 

                               

 

 

 

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photos ©2003-2011 Donald A. Thomas, Jr.